Sunday, September 21, 2014

Will's Spicy Chicken Soup


Spicy beef noodle soup (niu rou mian) is a staple of Taiwanese cuisine, but I generally avoid cooking with beef for environmental and health reasons. However, this chicken version I made was a resounding success--so much so that I don't mind not making the beef version!

[Ugg, lost a lot of the red spectrum from the photo when converting to web use. Yes, I did convert to sRGB format first.]

I think a couple things contributed to the soup's deliciousness. One is that I used a whole chicken, so the bones and skin all contributed to the soup's full flavor (though I removed them once cooked). The other thing is that I used a pressure cooker, which I find retains more of the nuances of flavor in whatever you're cooking.

The young mustard greens I tossed in also paired wonderfully with the spicy savory soup. I think you want to avoid older mustard greens, though, as their flavor can be overpowering. The soup works great with a starch tossed in, too, whether noodles, rice, or dumplings.

See below for my recipe. You may not have yellow rock sugar in your pantry, but I'd recommend getting it from a Chinese or other Asian grocery since its flavor is clearer or brighter than white or brown sugar. As Andrea Nguyen puts it in the context of making pho, yellow rock sugar "rounds out all the rough edges and brings the flavors together. Many Viet cooks in the past used granulated sugar and the flavor is just sweet and flat."


Will’s Spicy Chicken Soup

1 whole chicken, giblets, kidneys, and excess fat removed
salt (~1 TBS)

1 pod black cardamom
2 pods (16 points) star anise
1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns

1-inch of ginger, sliced into coins
4 large cloves garlic, lightly smashed
4 dried Chinese chili peppers, seeds discarded (add more or less to taste)
1 ounce (1-inch chunk) yellow rock sugar
1 TBS (gluten-free) soy sauce or tamari
2 TBS spicy douban jiang (spicy broad bean sauce)
2 quarts water

additions to the soup to taste
parboiled or steamed bok choy, young mustard greens, or other leafy greens
chopped scallions and/or cilantro
chopped pickled mustard greens (suan cai)
noodles of any sort (rice, cellophane, wheat)
steamed rice

  1. Place chicken in pressure cooker pot. Rub salt under the skin of the chicken all over the breasts and thighs, and onto the back of the chicken.
  2. Place cardamom, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns in a disposable tea pouch (this makes it easy to remove them after cooking, but isn’t necessary) and add into pot along with ginger, garlic, and dried peppers. Add rock sugar, soy sauce or tamari, spicy douban jiang, and water to the pot. Water should just cover chicken. 
  3. Pressure cook on high for 30 minutes. Allow for natural pressure release. (If you don’t have a pressure cooker, bring to a low boil and simmer for an hour, adding more water as needed.) Chicken should be fall-off-the-bone done. Strip the meat from the bones and shred. Discard the bones, skin (if desired), spices, ginger, and garlic.
  4. Serve in individually portioned bowls with greens, rice or noodles, and garnish.

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